Modding a TV for RGB - Part 2

 Hi and welcome back to a little addendum about my RGB mod.Now, it was drawn out into the open a few times that there may be an issue with the plan of my mod.So, first I'm demonstrating what the issue was, then, at that point, I will show youhow I will fix it, and afterward I have a little treat for you!You might perceive this unpleasant schematic from my last video.However, I simply need to zero in on the part here that arrangements with the blanking pin.So, the thought behind this was that when I flipped the switch, it would send 5 volts to the blanking circuit over at the wilderness chip.And it does that fine and dandy.

Nonetheless, it likewise sends power once again into the miniature regulator as well.And this can be an issue since when the miniature regulator attempts to bring the line low while the switch is on, there is an immediate short circuit.Obviously the chip has endure up to this point, however long haul it might wind up copying the chip out.So, I've removed the board back from the TV and I will eliminate this wire from the blanking pin.OK, so checking out the board here, the follow on the opposite side takes the transmission from thischip directly over to this resistor.And so when the miniature regulator needs to convey the blanking message it sends it through this resistor and onto the wilderness chip.So, this is what I will do, I will warm this resistor up and pull itout very much as I did the other ones.At this point the blanking line is currently disengaged completely.The plan is, since my flip switch is a twofold toss, it has 3 pins.So what I will do is run the blanking signal from the wilderness chip to the middlepin on this switch.

Then, at that point, I'll associate the rest like this.So the thought being that when you flip the flip switch it will interface the wilderness chip to

the miniature regulator or the 5 volt line, so it will be either, yet not both.This ought to ensure the microcotroller as it will presently don't have 5 volts being constrained into that pin.

Nothing will change in the manner the TV or the switch works when contrasted with last time.

What's more the other wire will return in the opening the resistor used to be in.

What's more since I'm in here, I get it's an ideal opportunity to cut this connector off.

It was a transitory fix in any case.

I got the new part in I wanted, which should make this look much more rich.

In any case, I had initially eliminated the additional wires from the strip link that I didn't

need, so presently I'll need to add one back by sliding an additional a wire in here.

It was either that or re-weld the entire lace link.

There we go, so I'll simply clip this down.

Then, at that point, obviously, I'll have to associate this additional wire to the next void association on

this flip switch.

I'll simply utilize several zip connections to assist with holding the additional wire along with the strip

link.

Better believe it, I surmise that will work!

Alright, so since that is fixed, I have something different I need to show you.

Thus, in the last video, I had remarked that hypothetically it ought to be feasible to show

a VGA video signal.

Presently, a many individuals were fascinated by that and needed to perceive how that would function, so

I'm demonstrating how that functions!

Alright, so presently it's an ideal opportunity to construct a link.

Yet, how might I do that?

All things considered, I'll begin by hacking this extra VGA link into equal parts, and afterward stripping back

the protection, and afterward unraveling this safeguarding.

Presently we have 1,000,000 wires, where do we begin?

I'll utilize my multi-meter in progression mode to find which wires go to which pins.

Presently, investigate this outline I figured out web-based a long opportunity back telling the best way to wire up a VGA

sign to associate with a composite TV.

Presently, I should introduce this with the way that this plan expects the VGA port is yielding

the right recurrence for a NTSC TV.

This piece of the circuit basically takes the 3 distinct shadings and consolidates them with

diverse resistor esteems to change it over to a decent grayscale.

All things considered, it's absolutely impossible to get shading on a sign like this since composite tone

is produced in an in a general sense distinctive manner.

Actually you just need one of shading signals, however on the off chance that you utilized the RED sign, for instance,

green text could never appear.

So joining them like this presumably works best.Now, this piece of the circuit consolidates the level and vertical sync into a compositesync.Now, I've really utilized this plan before years prior and it accomplishes truth be told work.

In any case, I will make some modifications.First of all, I'll dispose of this segment here.The base part will presently turn out to be only a sync signal.And then, at that point, I'll pipe the red, green, and blue squarely into the TV.And so here it is.This is only a no fuss method for making this link in light of a legitimate concern for a demonstration.Obviously this could utilize a ton of improvementAnyway, assuming you plug this into the TV and power on the PC, you will see this.Yeah, there's clearly a video signal here, yet it's at some unacceptable recurrence for the TV.So how would we fix that?Well, there's this little DOS program that will change the result recurrence of the VGA card.Of course, when I do this on my VGA screen, it looses picture, and afterward the main thing it says is out of reach, and that is on the grounds that the VGA screen was not intended to work a NTSC frequencies.